Where can you go down a backroad to discover a fine dining destination just off the interstate 5? Rumor has it, Sully’s, the new clubhouse restaurant at the Oak Creek Golf Course in Red Bluff.
The size of the place charms on first glance. The white outer stucco building and golf course setting create a refuge from the heat. Instantly welcomed by the staff and relaxed by the room temperature, diners easily cozy in and chill.
The large Sully’s sign above the bar is an enlarged business card from the original Sully’s in Anaheim, California, that was opened just after Prohibition. One of the Red Bluff Sully’s owners marveled over it for years; it belonged to his late and great grandfather. It’s now been enlarged and repurposed to give a second life to Sully’s in this marvelous reborn, food-first gem, hidden from Red Bluff’s main streets, still with that quality of a timeless American classic.
Cold beers on tap help cool the core, while mystery remains in the menu we study. The menu is printed inhouse, its offerings progressively fresh. A few minutes pass, and from a corridor behind the bar emerges a dapper young man. He makes his way to the table and proceeds to introduce himself, Executive Chef Donald Snyder, who trained as sushi chef in San Francisco at Ozumo and u-sushi, as well as under Redding’s Wes Matthews of Market Street Steakhouse and Keith Silverton of CookHouse on Lake Shasta. Now Chef Donald is the flavor architect of the Sully’s kitchen.
Chef explained that all produce is grown within Shasta, Tehama, Butte counties’ fifty-mile radius and is truly farm to table. He handpicks it for its flavor profile. Many herbs are grown on site. Snyder searches out protein from farms that make animal care as high a value as decades of consistency in product quality and taste. He echoed that his food is prepared from scratch, food is fresh, and the taste is alive with thought.
He recommended this week’s special, double-boned Berkshire pork tomahawk stuffed with blueberry cornbread dressing on a bed of foraged ramp and mushroom risotto. Mmmmmm—and a wonderful spectacle upon arrival, with the tomahawk upright like a music note, plump base holding the bones. It is wonderful when food meets expectation, because the words on the menu equal the sight and the concert of flavors and textures. The pork was done to perfection and, paired with its dressing and the risotto, seemed subtly magnificent. It pained me to think I could get this meal only on this week of the year, but the thought summoned the desire to return for another week’s meal. Dessert: fig challah bread pudding served with house-made salted crème fraiche bourbon caramel.
SULLY’S RESTAURANT AT OAK CREEK GOLF COURSE
2620 Montgomery Rd, Red Bluff
Open Tuesdays through Sundays